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Although I am working with VDX.TV, I do a lot of pet projects in my spare time. It can include anything. In these works, I gain a lot of experience. Links to such recent experiences are given below.

Bishnupur

14-December-2024

Trip to Bishnupur

Step into Bishnupur, and you step back in time. This historic town in West Bengal, once the glorious capital of the Malla kings, is a living museum where every brick and carving whispers tales of a bygone era. Famous for its breathtaking terracotta temples, classical music, and exquisite Baluchari sarees, Bishnupur offers a journey into a world of unique architecture and rich cultural heritage.

I’ve returned to this magical place multiple times, and with each visit, I feel a deeper connection to its storied past. This time, on a crisp December day, I met up with my friend Malay to once again wander through its historic lanes and rediscover the artistry of the Malla dynasty. I traveled from my hometown in Birbhum, and he joined from Kharagpur, both of us ready to be captivated by the town’s timeless charm.

Our tour began at the iconic Rasmancha. Built in 1600 CE, this unique pyramidal structure is unlike any other temple in Bengal. It wasn’t built for a single deity but as a grand stage to display idols from all the surrounding temples during the annual Ras festival. Its massive brick arches and terracotta-tiled roof make for an imposing and unforgettable sight.

Rasamancha Rasamancha

We then went to the Madan Mohan Temple, an active place of worship that remains in surprisingly excellent condition. This Eka-Ratna (single-pinnacled) temple is a masterpiece of terracotta art. The walls are covered in intricate panels depicting scenes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata, and the life of Lord Krishna.

Madan Mohan Temple Madan Mohan Temple

Our next destination was the Stone Chariot (পাথরের রথ). This is a small temple that looks like a chariot, dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Stone Chariot

Nearby stands the Garh Darja, the imposing main gateway to the old Malla fort. Before reaching this large gate, you pass through the Small Stone Gate (ছোট পাথরের দরজা). These structures, built from laterite stone, once served as the primary defense for the royal complex and still evoke a sense of the kingdom’s former power.

Small Stone Gate Small Stone Gate

Garh Darja

After passing through the gates, we explored a cluster of fascinating sites: Lalji Temple, Radha Shyam Temple, the famous Jor Bangla Temple, and the mysterious Gum Ghar. The Jor Bangla, with its distinctive design mimicking two thatched huts joined together, is a prime example of Bengali temple architecture. Its walls are adorned with some of the most detailed terracotta carvings in Bishnupur. In stark contrast, Gum Ghar is a windowless, enigmatic structure rumored to have been a royal treasury or even a torture chamber, adding a layer of mystery to our tour.

Lalji Temple Lalji Temple Path to Lalji Temple

Jor Bangla Temple Detailed terracotta art at Jor Bangla Temple Terracotta panel depicting stories at Jor Bangla Temple

Gum Ghar

We then visited the magnificent Pancha Ratna Shyam Rai Temple. As a Pancha Ratna (five-pinnacled) temple, its architecture is as impressive as its ornamentation. The temple is a veritable gallery of terracotta art, with panels so well-preserved that the stories from Hindu epics, especially the Raslila of Krishna, are still vivid and clear. It’s easy to see why this is one of the most popular—and often crowded—spots in Bishnupur.

Pancha Ratna Shyam Rai Temple

While many tours conclude here before heading to the Dal Madal Canon, we decided to take a detour. We ventured off the beaten path to explore several less-frequented but equally beautiful temples, each with its own quiet charm. It felt like discovering hidden gems of the Malla kingdom.

Nanda Lal Temple Radha Gobinda Temple

Radha Madhav Temple Radha Madhav Temple Radha Madhav Temple

Kala Chand Temple

Our explorations led us finally to the Jor Mandir complex. Here, three laterite temples stand together in a single enclosure, creating a striking and symmetrical view. Though they appear identical, each has subtle differences for the keen observer.

Temple 1 at Jor Mandir Temple Complex Temple 1 and 3 at Jor Mandir Temple Complex

Our trip concluded with a visit to the legendary Dal Madal Canon. This massive iron cannon is a symbol of Bishnupur’s military might and is said to have been miraculously fired by Lord Madan Mohan himself to protect the kingdom. Standing beside it is a powerful reminder of the town’s formidable history.

Dal Madal Canon